Narayanpet Saree, traditional patterned weaves, shining revival

Narayanpet Sarees are traditional handlooms made in Narayanpet, a town in Mahbubnagar District, abricA.P., India.  The characteristic Zari check patterns on a silk or cotton body with a contrasting colour temple border and plain border on both sides, are distinguishing features of the Narayanapet Sari. A family tradition involving all its members, the Narayanpet handlooms are woven in silk and cotton, though the preference was once more for silk on account of the returns.

Narayanpet Sarees originally came through a Marathi influence; the royal patronage of Shivaji, the Marathi ruler. Later Lokapalli Sansthanam, an organized body, devoted efforts to see this traditional art form flourish. Even today, wearing a Narayanpet Saree is considered auspicious, and offering of the same is meant for the Goddess.

The Narayanpet  saree has a fineness count of 80:80. Fineness count is a number expressing how fine the fabric is. Higher the count, finer the material. Here fineness is indicative of the fibres per unit length of warp and weft.

The handloom weaving of the Narayanpet Silk fabric could take 2-3 days to complete. Comparatively, a Narayanpet Cotton Saree would take a day to weave. It is roughly estimated that there are about 1000 families or slightly more, involved in the making of this ethnic fabric. Employing vegetable dyes, the Narayanpet Saree has colours both rich and bright. The colour is mostly retained throughout the life of the fabric.

The Saree making process involves separation of gum from the yarn, bleaching so that the yarn loses its natural colour and would readily acquire the vegetable dye colour. Washed again after colouring and dried in shade for fastness of colour to be retained, the yarn is spun into threads. Threads are laid out on the warp (length wise lay) and rolled onto small sticks for the weft (breadth wise weaving).

A weaver makes 30 sarees from one beam of warp. It would take a month to complete weaving of one beam. Narayanpet handloom sarees are traditionally woven in the interlocked-weft technique.

Geographical Indication(GI) Status has been awarded to the Narayanpet Saree in April 2013. The GI status recognises the valuable contribution made by these weavers in keeping alive a cultural heritage of Andhra Pradesh and is a big relief to the beleaguered weavers of Narayanpet.

Narayanpet Saris are worn in their various forms for different occasions.

Fancy block floral prints on narayanpet cotton saree is preferred for daily casual, by college professors, corporate women and teachers.

The Pure Handloom Narayanapet Sari is fashionable wear with its kundans on thread embroidery designs, and zari border with an attractive pallu. It is generally worn for college parties, festivals and event functions.

Unnati  Silks has believed in healthy fusion of traditional and trendy.Combining the basic fabric with different combinations of prints, patterns, colours and applied to different styles, new seamless versions have emerged. 

Pure cotton plain body with traditional pattern designer pallu and coloured borders,

Or pure cotton sarees with block prints on body with designer block-printed pallu with multi-colour double borders,

Or pure cotton plain body sarees with temple design zari border and zari border pallu with plain borders in moderate colours.

These are but a few examples of Unnati’s innovative experiments on healthy fusion with Narayanpet sarees.

Unnati Silks, devoted to ethnic sarees and salwar kameez materials, has trendy designs, attractive patterns, pleasing colours and combinations in its wide collection of Rajkot Silk Patola Sarees and Cotton Patola Sarees at very reasonable prices. Dispatch is within 24 hours of order, with free delivery & COD for retail, and world-wide express shipping.  Contact: UNNATI SILK PRINTS PVT. LTD,#3-4-360, Vajra Complex, General Bazar (Tobacco Bazar), M.G.Road, Hyderabad-500003. AP,India.040-64555251 or 97000 57744. www.unnatisilks.com

exclusive online sarees, traditional Indian, handloom weaving, Unnati Silks

Weaving is a way of producing fabric. The saree is a traditional Indian fabric preferred by most women in India and is a national heritage. It is made by weaving, either by traditional handlooms or by modern power looms. There are very many centres for the handloom weaving of ethnic sarees across India. Kanjivaram, Dharmavaram, Arani, Mysore, Bangalore, Coimbatore, Banaras, Kota, Bhagalpur, Sambalpur, Bomkai,  are well known for their unique weaves.          

Weaving involves the following basic stages before the completed fabric is obtained.

The selection of yarn for the fabric which could be natural fibres like cotton,jute, silk or artificial like georgette, chiffon, polyester, nylon etc. or blends of both types. The spinning of yarn to make it into thread needed for the weaving. Spinning could involve rolling or twisting of more than one yarn fibre into a single thread for strength.

The separation of the thread, which is by reeling it onto a frame for the warp, and onto small reels or shuttles or bobbins for the weft to interlace with the warp threads for the weave. The weaving process, for the movement of the threads, across and forth, for completing the fabric.

Dyeing has now become an integral part of the weaving process since it is very rare for plain threads to be simply woven without any colouring done. Dyeing of threads is mostly done prior to the weave though you could have the woven fabric dyed after weaving too. Colours chosen are natural vegetable and organic dyes or chemical dyes, though the latter is mostly used nowadays on account of being cheaper and more easily available.

There are two distinct sets of threads known as warp (longitudinal lay on the loom or machine used for weaving) and weft (the lateral threads that are interlaced with the warp at right angles). The interstices or crossing of the threads determines the characteristic of the weave.

There are three basic weaves - the plain weave, the satin weave and the twill weave. Sometimes, an arrangement is also incorporated, for weaving a pattern or design, within a main weave, known as, jacquard. There are many types of looms for weaving fabrics which are operated by hand and known as handlooms.

Mass production of fabrics nowadays is more through power looms or automatic looms.